Alessandro Michele Makes A Magnificent Return To Fashion Chez Valentino Upon Alessadno Michele’s deeply saddening departure from Gucci an odd two years ago, Michele’s inevitable return to the runway in Paris sparked intrigue, joy, and a much needed return to the maximization of textures, trims, and colors and that fashion was lacking in his absence. Both embodying all things Valentino, as well as adding his own Alessandro touches, including a change of scenery from the Hotel Salomon de Rothschild to the Dojo de Paris on the Perepherique, and a vision of Valentino only Alessandro could execute. The runway itself was lined with a plethora of chairs from loveseats to ottomans, with dusty, dingy drapery to match the cavernous aesthetic of the Dojo, the show was placed on, and models pacing down a cracked mirror walkway to tie it all together. Then to juxtapose it all, an 85 look collection featuring, of course, the usual muted colors this seasons has become so comfortable with, but paired with the glitz and glamor of Valentino; royal violet purples and and starched contrasts of blue and yellow, fur lined sheer sleeping gowns and polka dot ruffles, all made more dramatic when styled with lace gloves and stockings in a minimal black slingback heel. Michele stated before the show that he spent a good amount of time at the start of his residence in the Valentino name, looking through and consequently analyzing the archives that Valentino had to offer. Not only does this provide context for the regal 1960s aesthetic of the looks he sent down the runway, but prove as evidence of his willingness to combine modern Michele taste with vintage Valentino stables. 2
Combining aspects of recent trends of animal print and tailoring, with regal silhouettes, Alessandro Michelle is one of the few designers, in my opinion, that accurately portrays the art that can be found within fashion design, without relying on shock and buzz to create attention. One of the things I liked most about his tenure at Gucci was the departure he created from the white box logo T-Shirts the brand had started to become, replacing it with 70s funk and glamor, reviving the brand to become what it had once been: expensive. Though Valentino never quite went through the same disparity between fashion and hype that Gucci had, this new take on the brand is nothing short of perfect. Both on trend, on theme, and excitingly fresh in comparison to previously ground-breaking Fashion Week collections, Michelle’s return to the runway for Valentino feels very exciting for the direction I hope we get to see Ready-To-Wear take over the next few years, and amps up the excitement for his next collection for the F/W season.
References: Phelps, Nicole. “Valentino Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection.” Vogue, 29 Sept. 2024, www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/valentino. Accessed 30 Sept. 2024.